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December 12, 2023 0 In Apparel, Fashion

Apparel sector urged to display PEFC in fashion’s label

According to a recent report, fashion brands are missing a valuable opportunity by not prominently displaying the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) on their labels.

PEFC is a leading global alliance of national forest certification systems. They endorse national forest certification systems developed through multi-stakeholder processes and tailored to local priorities and conditions.

Despite the prevalence of forest-sourced materials in the textile industry, certifications indicating sustainable sourcing are rarely seen on clothing labels. While paper packaging often bears the PEFC label, clothing certifications are rare.

PEFC’s recent event, Textile Exchange conference in London highlighted that nearly 7% of raw materials in textile manufacturing come from trees.

Julia Kozlik, PEFC’s market engagement manager and textile program lead, said, “The textile sector relies almost twice as much on raw materials from trees as it does from wool in terms of quantity.”

Man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCFs) predominantly originate from forests, understanding and promoting sustainable forest management is crucial for fashion brands.

As per Julia Kozlik, the importance of a responsible sourcing policy for brands using wood-based materials to ensure sustainability.

While many fashion brands have shifted to paper-based packaging as a perceived environmentally friendly alternative to plastic, Kozlik cautioned that the sustainability of wood-based materials must also be considered.

Besides, sourcing all tree-based materials from sustainably managed forests can positively impact deforestation and reduce the overall carbon footprint of apparel products.

Notably, sustainable forest certification has a positive impact on a product’s overall footprint.

For this, PEFC certifications are proudly displayed on food and stationery packaging, the fashion sector lags behind in promoting its commitment to sustainable sourcing.

There has been a notable positive shift in the last two years, with fashion brands increasingly recognizing the importance of sustainable forest certification.
December 12, 2023 0 In Sustainability

Sustainable raw material is key to green revolution for global fashion brands

Raw materials are the core and fundamental elements of fashion and apparel industry, also a prime suspect for climate change and sustainability challenges. The industry must cooperate for the solve issue of sustainability challenges in textile and take necessary action to meet business standards. The need is urgent, and the industry knows it: more than 85% of leading brands (by sales) have publicly declared decentralization targets for their supply chains.

According to several sources, brands that act now to secure a preferred-raw-materials supply for the future will be positioned to capture an estimated average 6% profit uplift after five years. In fact, at the high end of the range in our model, a fashion brand with $1 billion in annual revenues has the potential to tap a cumulative opportunity of approximately $100 million over five years.

Ways of reducing carbon emission

The supply chain must use materials, even with lowest environmental and social impact because of the seamlessness of the network. We can have two pathways to reduce greenhouse emissions such as:

  • Using sustainably sourced recycled raw materials (this goes for all non-renewable materials but is also an increasingly important pathway for renewable raw materials)
  • Using sustainably sourced renewable raw materials that are continually replenished at a rate equal to or greater than the rate of depletion.

According to BSG report data, fashion brands must use proper rules and regulations towards a sustainable future for their brand growth. It is clear that fashion brands are creating limited impact on this challenge issue so far. Upcoming regulations will cover every aspect of the operations of manufacturers, brands, and retailers in the fashion and apparel space. All life cycle stages of the product will be regulated:

  • The way products are sourced (for example, to exclude human rights challenges)
  • The way they are designed (for instance, the EU’s Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation)
  • The way they are marketed (for example, the EU’s Green Claims Directive)
  • The way they are discarded (for example, the EU’s Waste Framework Directive and the Extended Producer Responsibility)

To successfully adopt to upcoming rules and gain a competitive advantage, companies must include sustainability concerns and standards into all aspects of their operations, including design, procurement, manufacturing, labelling, marketing, business models, and financial strategies.

Sustainable raw materials sourcing and material strategy

According to the report, sourcing preferred raw materials requires reimagining high-volume materials. The top five materials that are used—and that contribute to the largest GHG footprint in fashion and apparel—are cotton, wool, bovine leather, MMCFs (such as viscose), and synthetics (led by polyester and nylon). Broadly, the options lie within two categories: sustainably sourced renewable materials (such as regenerative or organic materials) and recycled materials.

The durability and quality of the material and product are also important, and this consideration should be taken into account beginning at the design and development stage. Doing so has practical implications for brands given that the intrinsic characteristics of conventional virgin materials are sometimes lost in recycled materials, creating weaker substitutes.

A brand’s sustainability transformation can achieve impactful change in many ways—through improved forecasting to combat the issue of overstock, for example, or through circular business models such as resale and rental services. There are six principles for brands to future proof their material strategy:

Sustainability standards and certifications are critical to achieving these goals. Other major enablers include the development of cross-functional programmes and systems to enable material and product traceability, as well as the establishment of direct contacts throughout the supply chain.

To guarantee a coordinated strategy and higher data quality to fulfil regulatory standards and growing customer expectations, brands may consider appointing a head of traceability to oversee cooperation across the sustainability, legal, IT, and marketing departments.

(The report has been made based on a report published on Ethical Corporate Magazine)
December 12, 2023 0 In Apparel, Retail

Ways to enhance Labor-Based Productivity in Bangladesh’s apparel industry

Bangladesh’s garment industry grapples with significant challenges in labor-based productivity, evidenced by its hourly output of $3.40, a considerable distance from China, the leading exporter with an hourly productivity of $11.10. Despite being the second-largest apparel exporter in Asia, Bangladesh lags behind seven competitors in hourly productivity, with the exception of Cambodia.

The industry’s recruitment strategy, focusing on CEOs, EDs, IEGMs, and managers from countries with influential officials in similar positions, has not yielded the anticipated productivity improvements, prompting questions about the failure to establish a robust industry ecosystem domestically.

Government agencies report a commendable 3.80% increase in overall labor productivity between 1995 and 2016. However, data from the Asian Productivity Organization (APO) reveals a more modest growth of 2.5% in 20 Asian countries during the same period. Bangladesh’s hourly productivity of $3.4 is notably lower than that of several regional counterparts, including Sri Lanka, Indonesia, China, Philippines, India, Vietnam, and Myanmar, posing a challenge to the industry’s efficiency.

The reasons behind the industry’s inefficiencies are:

1. The workforce in Bangladesh’s garment industry experiences a profound sense of dissatisfaction, primarily stemming from low wages. However, the situation is exacerbated by misleading and provocative messages propagated through newspapers, social media, and labor organizations. Regrettably, efforts to redirect the understanding of these workers towards the industry’s positive contributions, such as providing income and alleviating unemployment, have been largely ineffective. Despite being the second-largest apparel exporter, the failure of media, BGMEA, BKMEA, government agencies, and internal organizational teams to positively market these aspects has hindered progress.

2. The prevalent practice of producing relatively inexpensive products in Bangladesh’s garment sector results in lower wages, creating a cycle of reduced work pressure and salaries. While the potential for increased earnings exists with exceptional performance and handling critical orders, the failure to communicate this message effectively has contributed to the closure of 300 factories in recent months. Wage boards, government bodies, employers’ associations, NGOs, and labor unions are continually working towards wage parity, yet the challenge persists. Efforts to counteract negative messages and maintain awareness in support of salary levels require ongoing attention.

3. Emotional and enthusiastic individuals who share negative news and labor exploitation stories on social media contribute to a distorted view of the industry. Failing to recognize our own inefficiencies, we indulge in the delusion that sharing such news serves a greater purpose. Overlooking the pivotal role of the garment industry in preventing a drastic increase in unemployment and revitalizing the economy, we continue to engage in activities that do not align with our national destiny. The need for a shift in focus from negative news to industry strengths is imperative.

4. Office-level employees face constant stress and strain due to supply chain inefficiencies, leading to unnecessary overtime and shipment delays. Incorrectly attributing 80% of industry inefficiency to production, this misplacement of responsibility hampers the sector’s overall effectiveness. Recognizing the significance of addressing supply chain challenges and starting individual projects within each factory is crucial to rectify this situation. Media, government bodies, and private organizations must play a more active role in supporting these initiatives.

 

5. The garment industry as a whole has inadequately addressed issues of total business inefficiency, with completed projects by government and non-government organizations falling short. Failure to scrutinize foreign companies involved in such projects has led to significant expenditures without tangible industry improvements. Caution is warranted before engaging with reputed companies to ensure internal dissatisfaction and sensitive information are not compromised.

 

6. Negative narratives from local and foreign media, influential personalities, and foreign companies renting hotels with industry funds contribute to a tarnished image of the garment sector. The failure of public and private organizations to counteract this negativity is evident, with sporadic protests and minimal initiatives. Vigilance is required to safeguard the industry’s reputation against undue criticism.

 

7. The media in Bangladesh, while adept at reporting on various topics, tends to overshadow small negative news about the garment industry. This selective reporting fuels public indignation and undermines the industry’s contributions. The educated class needs to remain vigilant to counteract such biases and ensure a more balanced representation of the industry in the media.

  1. Internal efficiency training within organizations has primarily focused on keeping operators productive, neglecting efforts to enhance personal efficiency and overall production efficiency. Each factory must initiate projects to address these shortcomings, with media, government bodies, and private organizations providing essential support. The success of the industry relies on individual initiatives and a holistic approach to improving efficiency.

 

  1. The garment industry’s failure to invest adequately in automation is a critical shortcoming. While some initiatives like installing ERP and RFID have been undertaken, true factory automation remains elusive. Acknowledging the inevitability of automation, the industry must embrace this transformation to remain competitive. Neglecting this imperative will result in a missed opportunity for sustainable growth.

 

  1. Despite appointing high-ranking officials, including CEOs, EDs, IEGMs, and Managers, from countries known for productivity, the factories under their leadership do not exhibit the expected levels of efficiency. This raises questions about the industry’s failure to establish a conducive ecosystem. A comprehensive review session with heavyweight officials is necessary to understand and address the challenges hindering the establishment of a productive culture.

 

  1. Lean methods, with a toolbox of 100 effective tools, require closer involvement in all processes of production-oriented organizations. The reluctance to adopt tested methods impedes the development of an efficient ecosystem. It is crucial to identify and implement high-priority tools based on the organization’s business model, fostering a culture that integrates these tools into daily operations. Constructive steps must be taken to ensure successful implementation and transformation.
December 12, 2023 0 In Fashion, Retail

Retail apparel brand Miclo launches 8 showrooms

As part of the ultimate fashion destination, ‘Miclo Bangladesh Limited’ has entered the market to offer a range of high-quality and affordable ready-made clothing options inspired by the Japanese lifestyle to the consumers in the country.

On November, seven showrooms opened together in Dhaka and another one in Narshingdi. Celebrity vocalist Shayan Chowdhury Arnab inaugurated the flagship ScienceLab outlet in Dhanmondi.

Director of Miclo (Creative Design, Innovation, and Marketing Department) Baaboo Arif, said that Miclo follows Japanese quality since we get inspired by Japanese fashion, lifestyle and product quality.

They give protection of the environment top priority in both the manufacturing and delivery of their clothing. Simultaneously, they prioritize environmental protection issues throughout their garment production and delivery processes.

GSabbir Ahmed, Director of Production in Miclo’s Finance and Administration Division, said that in today’s digital age, everyone is highly fashion-conscious, with trends constantly changing. We aim to offer Japanese quality clothing at affordable prices, catering to the preferences of all our customers.

On the other hand, AHM Ariful Kabir, Director of Merchandising, Sales and Human Resources at Miclo, expressed the organization’s aspiration to make its international standard sales service.

In Bangladesh, Miclo isn’t just embarking on a journey of fashion; it’s igniting a new revelation, as highlighted by Tadahiro Yamaguchi, Miclo’s Global Business Director. In a brief message at the launch event, he said that Miclo is a clothing brand inspired by the Japanese lifestyle, offering tech-savvy style and unwavering quality assurance.

On the same day, the renowned singer, Pritom Hasan, inaugurated Miclo’s store at Jamuna Future Park and Bashundhara City Shopping Complex. Miclo’s dedicated team was also present at the event. Join us as we redefine fashion and embark on this exciting journey with Miclo! Side by side, on the same day, the senior executives of Miclo Bangladesh Limited inaugurated the stores in Mohammadpur, Ring Road, Warriar Ranking Street, Jatrabari, and Metro Shopping Mall.

Celebrity singer Pritom Hasan also inaugurated a store in Narshingdi.

However, in the near future, this fashion brand is planning to expand its service reach to customers by opening more branches.
December 12, 2023 0 In Fashion

Circular fashion review by Lydia Brearley

This week PUMA Group announced they will be using waste fabric to produce all replica football club jerseys from 2024. The ‘Recycle Fibre’ technology was trialled in 2022, and is made from recycled materials made from old garments and factory waste, rather than recycled polyester from plastic bottles.

Last week at COP28, we heard about the plan to develop an off-shore wind project in Bangladesh, in partnership with

BESTSELLER, H&M Group, Global Fashion Agenda and Copenhagen Infrastructure Partners. The investment will be a significant step in limiting GHG emissions in the value chain – a challenge the entire fashion industry is trying to tackle, and operations are set to commence in 2028.

We also heard the news that the European Commission have reached a ‘preliminary’ deal on the proposed Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). The ESPR aims to improve product longevity, energy and resource efficiency, repair ability, and recyclability and also proposes a Digital Product Passport. What’s also key is the proposed ban on the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear, which, if adopted, would require larger companies to report on the disposal of unsold consumer products.

HUGO BOSS have linked up with Zurich based venture capital platform Collateral Good, to launch a €100 million fund to invest in startups focusing on sustainable fashion technologies and promoting environmental sustainability.
As textile recycling continues to gain momentum as a key facilitator in driving a circular economy, a total of 18 European companies from across the textile and clothing supply chain, have formally joined ReHubs. ReHubs is EURATEX – European Apparel and Textile Confederation project aimed at upscaling textile waste and recycling.

The Footwear Distributers and Retailers of America (FDRA) released their 2023 Shoe Sustainability Progress Report, outlining the state of sustainability and commitment to sustainable practices in the footwear industry. Key findings reveal progress in integrating recycled content into shoes whilst maintaining performance, the challenges around certifying materials, and the complexities around the adopting biomaterials and driving transparency in complex supply chains.
In other news Axel Arigato have teamed up with speaker brand Transparent, releasing a unique and limited run of speakers made from upcycled sneakers soles.

Rapha are the latest brand to partner with United Repair Centre (UPC) in Amsterdam. The collaboration marks and exciting step in their circularity journey for Rapha, promoting high-quality clothing repair services to extend the life cycle of clothing.
December 12, 2023 0 In Innovations

Bangladesh Shoe City emerges as a beacon of innovation in footwear industry

Bangladesh Shoe City Limited (BSCL) has emerged as a beacon of innovation and progress to revolutionize the footwear industry. The groundbreaking initiative led by the Jennys Group includes the creation of a single and state-of-the-art facility, where around 50 materials critical to shoe manufacturing will be manufactured at one location.

Despite the potential, Bangladesh’s export income of leather products, including shoes, has been stuck at about $1 billion for almost two decades. According to industry insiders, excessive dependence on imported materials for shoe production is one of the major reasons for this export stagnation in Bangladesh. This dependence makes the industry vulnerable to supply chain disruptions and exchange rate fluctuations.

Jennys Group’s subsidiary BSCL wants to change Bangladesh’s position in this sector by building a global shoe production center on 35 acres of vast land in Gazipur’s Mouchak Union. BSCL Chairman Nasir Khan reiterated the firm’s commitment to achieving 100% value addition in this state-of-the-art facility.

Acknowledging the disruption caused by the pandemic and the Russia-Ukraine conflict, Nasir Khan said buyers often express concerns about the stability of supply chains that rely heavily on imports, highlighting the need for a more resilient and integrated approach.

Sanjay Saha, Project Director of BSCL, envisioned the company as a one-stop shop for footwear manufacturing. Its estimated cost is Tk 800 crore and the facility is expected to begin production by 2030. The project will generate around 25,000 new employments.

Saha said, currently the necessary equipment for shoe production comes from various countries including China and India. Usually about 50 materials are needed to make a shoe. Importing these materials is a time-consuming process, however, foreign buyers often open LCs for 40 to 50 days only.

This initiative is expected to increase their capacity by providing opportunities to the manufacturing units to meet the needs of both the local and international markets. The aim is to build 28 establishments where a variety of products will be produced. Its purpose is to ensure a simple process for manufacturing, where companies can focus on product manufacturing.”

According to Shoe City’s plan, each factory would produce each product in one location. Shoe making materials will be available at hand. As a result, organizations will be able to operate cost-effective manufacturing operations within existing value chains using shared service models.

Shoe City has a comprehensive plan to manufacture a wide variety of footwear and accessories. These include leather shoes, sports shoes, espadrilles (made of jute and cloth) shoes, safety shoes, children’s shoes, women’s fashion shoes, canvas shoes, school shoes, rubber shoes, Goodyear welted shoes, gags, wallets and belts.

Besides, Shoe City will encourage the development of ancillary industries of materials required for shoe production including outsoles, rubber, crepe, glue, synthetic materials, boxes, cartons, printing, labeling, tags, threads, moulds, dyes, toe puffs, tapes.

The project started in 2017. A five storied building with an area of more than one lakh square feet is under construction here. Five companies have already started production. Additionally, 15 companies in Europe, China and Japan signed Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with. This partnership will help in the manufacturing of various shoe components.

“We are moving ahead with our plans. Our Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) is almost 90 percent complete. ETP will be provided to any tannery or establishment if required. We will also establish a Green Resilience Zone, which will facilitate obtaining Leather Working Group (LWG) certification from the institute here. We will also maintain renewable energy solutions,” Saha said.

Apart from modern manufacturing facilities, the leather industrial park will provide a wider range of facilities to ensure a vibrant and fair working environment for the companies concerned.

These facilities include – training centres, restaurants, child care centres, medical centres, libraries, prayer rooms, central administrative buildings, exhibition and sales centres, inspection centres, observatories, warehouses, fire stations, transport companies, security companies, residential hotels , grocery stores and a central waste management facility.

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